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Ultimate Guide to Flower Varieties Used for Natural Dyes

Natural flower dyes have been used worldwide for centuries, providing rich, subtle, or vivid hues for textiles, yarns, and crafts. The colors extracted depend on the flower variety, mordant, fiber type, water pH, and even growing conditions.

This florist guide covers over 25 flower varieties, with color possibilities, plant parts, techniques, and special notes for each.

1. Marigold (Tagetes spp.)

  • Colors: Yellow, golden orange, light brown (with iron)
  • Parts Used: Petals
  • Mordant Tips: Alum brightens yellows; iron darkens to mustard
  • Notes: Contains lutein and carotenoids. Works best on silk, wool, and cotton. Dried petals retain color well.

2. Calendula (Calendula officinalis)

  • Colors: Bright yellow to deep orange
  • Parts Used: Petals
  • Mordant Tips: Alum brightens yellow; cream of tartar deepens gold
  • Notes: Excellent for soft, even shades. Petals are easy to harvest and dry.

3. Safflower (Carthamus tinctorius)

  • Colors: Yellow from water extraction; red from alcohol or acetone extraction
  • Parts Used: Petals
  • Mordant Tips: Alum helps yellow; reds may need special extraction
  • Notes: Historically used in textiles and cosmetics. Produces vivid colors on silk.

4. Hibiscus (Hibiscus sabdariffa, H. rosa-sinensis)

  • Colors: Pink, red, burgundy, purple (with alkaline water)
  • Parts Used: Flowers (fresh or dried)
  • Mordant Tips: Alum brightens reds; iron dulls to purples
  • Notes: Acidic water enhances reds, alkaline shifts toward purple. Works on cotton, silk, and wool.

5. Roses (Rosa spp.)

  • Colors: Pale pink, deep rose, mauve, brown (with iron)
  • Parts Used: Petals
  • Mordant Tips: Alum for bright pink; iron for mauve or gray tones
  • Notes: Different rose varieties yield subtle differences. Fragile petals require gentle simmering.

6. Cornflower (Centaurea cyanus)

  • Colors: Soft blue, violet, gray (with iron)
  • Parts Used: Petals
  • Mordant Tips: Alum works best; iron darkens
  • Notes: Produces delicate shades on silk or wool. Less effective on cotton without strong mordants.

7. Lavender (Lavandula spp.)

  • Colors: Pale purple, grayish-purple
  • Parts Used: Flowers
  • Mordant Tips: Alum enhances color; iron darkens
  • Notes: Produces soft, subtle hues. Works beautifully for hand-dyed silk scarves.

8. Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta)

  • Colors: Golden yellow, amber, light brown (with iron)
  • Parts Used: Petals
  • Mordant Tips: Alum for brightness; iron for earthy tones
  • Notes: Excellent for warm yellow-orange shades. Historically used in folk textiles.

9. Japanese Indigo (Persicaria tinctoria)

  • Colors: Blue from leaves; flowers add minor tints
  • Parts Used: Leaves for primary color; flowers optional
  • Mordant Tips: Not necessary for indigo; pH affects final blue
  • Notes: Flowers provide a subtle variation if mixed with other floral dyes.

10. Chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum spp.)

  • Colors: Yellow, light green, gold
  • Parts Used: Petals
  • Mordant Tips: Alum enhances brightness; iron shifts to olive
  • Notes: Historically used in East Asia for textile dyes. Works well with silk and wool.

11. Dahlia (Dahlia spp.)

  • Colors: Pink, coral, light red, sometimes purple (with iron)
  • Parts Used: Petals
  • Mordant Tips: Alum brightens pink; iron produces muted tones
  • Notes: Best used fresh. Flower color intensity affects the shade strongly.

12. Sweet Pea (Lathyrus odoratus)

  • Colors: Soft pink, lavender, violet
  • Parts Used: Flowers
  • Mordant Tips: Alum recommended for brighter hues; iron dulls the shade
  • Notes: Produces subtle, pastel shades. Ideal for delicate fibers like silk.

13. Woad Flower (Isatis tinctoria)

  • Colors: Pale yellow (flowers), blue from leaves
  • Parts Used: Leaves for blue; flowers rarely used
  • Mordant Tips: Not essential for indigo-like blues
  • Notes: Woad is a traditional European dye. Flowers add minor tints when mixed.

14. Corn Poppy (Papaver rhoeas)

  • Colors: Soft pink, coral, orange-red
  • Parts Used: Petals
  • Mordant Tips: Alum enhances brightness; iron dulls
  • Notes: Petals are delicate and must be simmered gently. Works on wool and silk.

15. Peony (Paeonia spp.)

  • Colors: Pink, magenta, red
  • Parts Used: Petals
  • Mordant Tips: Alum or iron can shift shades; alum enhances pink
  • Notes: Produces elegant, soft pinks; sometimes used in traditional Chinese textiles.

16. Yarrow (Achillea millefolium)

  • Colors: Yellow, golden brown
  • Parts Used: Flowers, occasionally leaves
  • Mordant Tips: Alum enhances yellow; iron creates olive or brown tones
  • Notes: Works well for earthy, warm yellow hues. Historical use in European dyeing.

17. Hibiscus Sabdariffa (Roselle)

  • Colors: Deep reds, burgundy
  • Parts Used: Sepals and petals
  • Mordant Tips: Alum for bright red; iron or lime water for muted shades
  • Notes: Widely used in tropical regions for textile and food dyes.

18. Morning Glory (Ipomoea spp.)

  • Colors: Pale blue, lavender
  • Parts Used: Flowers
  • Mordant Tips: Alum recommended; iron dulls
  • Notes: Produces light, subtle shades. Works well on silk and wool.

19. Bougainvillea (Bougainvillea spp.)

  • Colors: Pink, magenta, light purple
  • Parts Used: Bracts (colorful modified leaves)
  • Mordant Tips: Alum enhances color; iron can mute shades
  • Notes: Tropical plant; intense colors when fresh. Soft fibers absorb better.

20. Nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus)

  • Colors: Yellow, orange, red
  • Parts Used: Petals
  • Mordant Tips: Alum brightens; iron dulls
  • Notes: Produces warm, vibrant hues. Edible flowers also make natural food colorants.

21. Hibiscus Syriacus (Rose of Sharon)

  • Colors: Pink, mauve, purple (with iron)
  • Parts Used: Petals
  • Mordant Tips: Alum enhances pink; iron produces muted purples
  • Notes: Hardy shrub with pastel color possibilities. Works on silk and wool.

22. Goldenrod (Solidago spp.)

  • Colors: Bright yellow, gold, mustard (with iron)
  • Parts Used: Flowers
  • Mordant Tips: Alum brightens yellow; iron produces muted, olive tones
  • Notes: Traditional North American dye plant. Excellent for wool.

23. Clover (Trifolium spp.)

  • Colors: Pink, red, violet
  • Parts Used: Flowers
  • Mordant Tips: Alum brightens; iron produces muted tones
  • Notes: Red clover gives soft purples; white clover yields pale yellows.

24. Hibiscus Rosa-Sinensis (Chinese Hibiscus)

  • Colors: Red, crimson, burgundy
  • Parts Used: Petals
  • Mordant Tips: Alum brightens red; iron or lime water dulls
  • Notes: Widely cultivated for ornamental and dye purposes.

25. Verbena (Verbena spp.)

  • Colors: Purple, violet, magenta
  • Parts Used: Flowers
  • Mordant Tips: Alum enhances violet; iron dulls
  • Notes: Works well for soft, pastel shades on silk and wool.

Practical Dyeing Tips

  1. Mordants: Use alum, iron, copper, tin, or cream of tartar to adjust color brightness and fastness.
  2. Fiber Types: Protein fibers (wool, silk, alpaca) absorb colors more vividly than cellulose fibers (cotton, linen), but mordants help cellulose fibers hold color.
  3. pH Effects: Acidic water enhances reds/pinks; alkaline water shifts reds toward purples or blues.
  4. Extraction: Simmer petals gently in water. Avoid boiling delicate petals (e.g., rose, sweet pea) to prevent fading.
  5. Fresh vs. Dried: Fresh petals produce more vibrant colors; dried petals are convenient and last longer.
  6. Testing: Small sample pieces help predict final colors before dyeing larger batches.

This expanded guide covers the most commonly used flowers for natural dyes, their color potential, and

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